A mother laughs in mock dismay as her
toddler ruins their perfect sand castle by sloshing a bucket of
water on it. Some teenage boys decide to do some body boarding
despite the lack of waves on this broiling day. A couple sits
drinking their Miller Light longnecks while listening to the
country music crooning through the radio.
Galveston never ceases to amaze me.
Despite the baking temperatures, brown water, threat of
hurricanes, and the oil refineries, nothing stops us from coming
here. This is our beach.
I have seen Miami and countless other
beaches in Florida. I have been to California. I have seen
beaches in New Jersey, and the beaches of other Gulf towns such
as Biloxi, Mississippi. All are beautiful in their own way.
Their clear water, powdery sand, and lovely beach houses and
condominiums are often pictured on the covers of travel
magazines. The beaches in some of these areas set the standard
for what a “beautiful” beach town should be. But they still
aren't Galveston.
My friends, family, and I have often
laughed and joked about how our beach towns along the Texas Gulf
Coast compare to others in the United States. I have to admit,
we have poked fun at our Galveston. Yet, if I hear “an outsider”
say anything about our little getaway island, I feel as if
someone has insulted a family member that I am particularly fond
of. This is a Texas double standard; I can make fun of
my relations, but no one else can. In Texas, you just do not
mess with family. And although this family member may not be the
most beautiful, she has spirit, character, and a personality all
her own.
There are many things that people do
not know about our Galveston. Most people know it for the
obvious: the seven mile-long seawall that protects the island
from the constantly encroaching Gulf waters. This wall has done
its job through many hurricanes, with the exception of “The
Great Hurricane of 1900,”which completely obliterated Galveston
as the booming metropolis it was at the turn of the century. Few
people know that this hurricane still holds the title of the
most deadly natural disaster in the U.S.; an estimated 6000 to
12,000 people were killed. Feeling protective of Galveston, I
have returned for a closer look.
A friend and native to Galveston agrees
to help me get another up close and personal look at very
familiar territory. As we drive through the town, she points out
lovely Victorian mansions I had rather taken for granted. Each
of these grande dames has a history of her own, a story to tell.
The mansions vary in shape and color, and some have definitely
seen better days. You can almost feel the presence of their
former selves, sad victims of the storm of the century;
apparitions looming in the shadows of Galveston's past.
My friend knows them well; she engages
me with tales of death, sadness, love, and loss. I am enthralled
by their drama and rich history. Many natives swear that ghosts
are still present in them to this day. Being somewhat of a
mystical bent, I am inclined to agree. As spooky as it may
sound, none of this takes away from the charm of Galveston. And
during the island's Mardi Gras, the houses really come into
their own.
The history of Galveston begins long
before the boom and bust times from which it never quite
recovered. The first people who inhabited this little island
were the
Karankawa and
Akokisa Indian tribes. Galveston was also
the starting point for
Cabeza de Vaca’s famous trek to Mexico.
This European explorer who set the stage for the conquest of
Native America, was eventually shipwrecked there in 1528.
Galveston was named in honor of Bernardo de Galvez by the
explorer Jose de Evia who charted the Gulf Coast of the United
States.
Some time later, a pirate named Louis
Michel Aury, who had previously occupied Galveston, returned
from an unsuccessful raid on Spanish territory only to find that
the area had been taken over by none other than the infamous
pirate
Jean Lafitte. Lafitte took up residence in
Galveston after being driven out of New Orleans. There are, I
might add, many similarities between the two cities. It is
almost as if Galveston is a miniature version of New Orleans —
the New Orleans we all knew and loved before Hurricane Katrina.
With its own very special version of
Mardi Gras (parade included) and its own jazz festival,
Galveston is a taste of New Orleans in our own backyard. During
Mardi especially, you can imagine drunken pirates wandering the
town with their booty their arms slung around the shoulders of a
local wench. The music, the crowds, the beads, the all-night
drinking and celebration must have started back then.
However, the pirate times in Galveston
did not last, and Lafitte was eventually given an ultimatum by
the United States navy. Shape up or ship out. Incorrigible, he
left Galveston under the cover of night, but not before he
burned the settlement to the ground.
A spirit of independence and
self-determination has always been part of the culture of
Galveston. When Mexico won its independence from Spain in the
early 1820s, the newly formed national government designated
Galveston as a major port of entry to the new nation. Later,
during the
Texas Revolution, the little town served as
a major port for the navy of Texas. In 1836, Michel B. Ménard, a
French-Canadian purchased several thousand acres of land and
formed what would become modern Galveston. And then in 1939, the
city became fully represented in the Congress of the Republic of
Texas.
And the free spirit of Galveston is
also embodied in
“Junteenth” (also known as Freedom Day or
Emancipation Day). The commemoration of the end of slavery in
the United States every June 19th, also has roots in Galveston.
On June 19th, 1865, General George Granger marched his troops
into the business district of Galveston (known as the Strand)
and read aloud Abraham Lincoln's proclamation which ended
slavery.
On closer examination, I can now see
that Galveston is its own sub-culture of Texas, made up of a
myriad of idiosyncratic personalities, buildings, restaurants,
and shops — especially on the Strand.
I have special fond memories of going
to La King’s old-fashioned confectionary — It's still there! —
as a little kid and tugging at my mom’s shirt, begging her to
buy me some of the store's homemade sweets. After a long
sun-drenched day at the beach, it would be a cool and inviting
escape for my rumbling belly and my lobster-colored face. I
would watch transfixed as the homemade saltwater taffy swirled
around the rotating machine in a thick silky ribbon. And my
appetite would grow as I ran back and forth from “the ice cream
side” to “the candy side,” desperately trying to decide what to
get because I was only allowed one treat. After once I made what
to me was a life-altering decision, my family and I would sit
down at the little Victorian-style marble tables and enjoy our
post-swimming delicacies. And when I visit Galveston, I am still
the proverbial kid in a candy store.
While I'm on the topic of food, let me
tell you that there are so many different kinds of restaurants
in and around Galveston, that you can eat your way around the
island. I remember huge dinners at the famous, and for me very
classy, “Gaido’s Famous Seafood Restaurant” overlooking the
seawall. I would sit at the table and watch the waves, and then
when the waiter brought the warm bowl of lemon water and a towel
to wipe my hands with, I would demonstrate my social graces — a
real little lady. It was for me the height of sophistication.
Gaido’s is still there, and although as an adult I still enjoy
the fine dining, the kid in me still feels rather grand.
My reminiscing about Galveston would
not be complete without my mentioning
Dickens on the Strand. Every year at
Christmas, the Galveston Strand is converted into a Victorian
holiday celebration complete with food, shopping, costumes, and
music to fit the Victorian theme. In fact, those who show up in
“period attire” get into the celebration free.
I remember especially my middle school
hand-bell group. Our choir teacher made us homemade Victorian
school outfits, and paraded up and down the Strand performing
while onlookers smiled and waved. We thought we were the élite
of all hand-bell players, especially when we played the “Carol
of the Bells” while shivering crowds in the grandstands
listened. Even on a hot summer's day on the beaches of
Galveston, I can still hear the sweet tinkling of our bells,
taste the hot chocolate, and feel the surprisingly biting cold
of the December air in Galveston. The soft glow of the lights on
a real old-fashioned Christmas tree, the sounds of our parents
cheering, and the goose bumps made for a perfect Christmas
Carol. We were so proud. And it never occurred to me that all
the Christmas rituals and the Dickens theme were just a touch
incongruous with this little island off the coast of south
Texas. On Galveston, anything is possible.
As my thoughts turn back from the
Christmas air to the blistering heat and burning sand under my
feet, I am overwhelmed by the sensory memories evoked by this
little island we call Galveston.
I have a hunch that the pirates knew
that they had found a hidden treasure in our Galveston.
More about
Galveston....
* Galveston has a little something for
everyone. It's a great family destination for this reason. Many
people are now buying vacationhomes in Galveston; it's more
affordable beach living. Seventy-five per cent of Galveston
visitors come from
within a 300 mile radius, with a majority from Houston. However,
this is a destination not only for Texans, but for everyone.
* The Grand Opera House is a great
place to see shows, and has been in operation since from 1894.
It has also survived all of Galveston's hurricanes (even the big
one in 1900). It is listed in the National Register of Historic
places. It presents over 25 shows annually: touring Broadway
shows, and musical talents of all kinds. Stars like Robert Earl
Keen and Tony Bennett are featured.
* Be sure to see the Texas Seaport
Museum and Tall Ship Elissa. This beautiful ship is a
floating national historic landmark and dates back to 1877. You
can tour the ship and see the museum and film next door, which
documents the rescue of the ship. You will also learn a lot
about the maritime history of Galveston.
* Schlitterbahn is a huge water park
that just opened in summer of 2006.
* Don't miss The Great Storm
at the Pier 21 theater. This is a short but educational and
touching film about the great storm of 1900.
* Galveston has a laid back, yet
energetic nightlife. Here you will find everything from Irish
pubs, upscale bars, and many live music venues. Nightlife can
also be geared to people of different ages and tastes.
* One of the places that was damaged in
the last major storm was Yagas, a very popular live music venue.
Please note that they are in the process of rebuilding and
restoring it.
* Galveston has many festivals in
addition to jazz fest and mardi gras (which were mentioned in
the article). They have an Octoberfest, Greek Festival (October
13th-15th), BBQ and Wild Game Cook Off (proceeds go to charity),
and Artwalk. As for the latter, once a month all of the art
galleries open their doors to the public. People wander through
the galleries while sipping cocktails. Galveston has more than a
dozen art galleries. Oh, and you should note that the AIA
(American Institute of Architects) sand castle competition is a
huge event for Galveston. There is also a historic homes tour in
the spring that is highly recommended. Chcek out the Lone Star
Motorcycle Rally which is usually held in the month of October.
* The Railroad Museum is a must — the
history of railroading in Texas;Galveston was a huge part of
this. It has three diesel engines and three steam engines on
site that can be toured as well as audio devices that help tell
the story.
* Galveston Island State Park has a
theater with outdoor musicals from June to late August nightly
except Sundays.
* Other restaurants to visit: Di
Bella's (Italian), Rudy and Paco's, The Taco House, and the
Mosquito cafe are some of my favorites.
* There are many choices in
accommodation from inexpensive to high-end. The famous San Luis
Resort (all rooms have a view of the ocean) is in the latter
category.
* And of course, there is jet skiing,
parasailing, and other yahoo activities available near the
beaches.
